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Frequently Asked Questions

Here are answers to some of the more common questions we receive.  If you have a Sailworks question you'd like answered, contact us by phone or email.

 

Q: What year is my sail?

A:  Sailworks uses a unique color code identifier on the end of sail bag construction to identify each model year's production.  The list of color codes by year can be found here.

 

Q: My sail has two clew grommets.  Which one should I use?

A:  The dual clew grommets allow you to ergonomically align the boom to a comfortable angle. For example, if you are tall and set your boom in the upper half of the boom opening, then you should use the upper grommet, conversely, if you are short and set your boom in the lower half of the boom opening, then use the lower grommet. Using both grommets will effectively give you middle position, but can potentially pucker the sail between the grommets under strong outhaul tension. There is a minor effect upon the leech tension, depending upon which grommet you use. The upper grommet will make the leech slightly tighter and the lower grommet will make the leech slightly looser. The affect on the leech tension, however, is secondary to getting a comfortable boom angle for good control and leverage over the rig.

 

Q:  What do the MCS and IMCS stiffness numbers mean?

A: The MCS (Mast Check System) stiffness number is derived from actual measurements of the mast's mid-point deflection under a 30kg load, divided into the test length of the mast. This MCS value is only comparable the masts of the same length.  The IMCS (Indexed Mast Check System) stiffness number uses the MCS value, but indexes it to 460cm length to make the IMCS stiffness comparable to masts of different lengths.  A more detailed explanation of the MCS bend test and the calculation of the IMCS stiffness coefficient is explained here (PDF file, 29Kb).

 

Q: Why did you make the Hucker sails?

A: The Hucker sails were initially made as custom prototypes for Dale Cook to increase the height and hang time of his jumps. Dale is powerful and aggressive sailor and the Revo and Retro sails were not giving him the lift he wanted for flat water boosting. If you haven't seen a Hucker fly yet, check some of our video clips! The initial Hucker prototype sails were passed around to many Gorge riders in the summer of 2004. It turned out that there are lots advanced high wind sailors who were not satisfied with the jumping capabilities of their wave sails, so Hucker concept became a production sail line for 2005.  In many respects, the Hucker design is a bit of a throw back to late 80s shaping profiles. It has a very high center of effort, so the boom height needs to be raised and the mast step position moved forward to get a good balance. The Hucker loves small, fast high wind boards. Be very wary of the Hucker on a curvey rocker wave boards, which cannot accelerate fast enough and the high centered power of the Hucker becomes challenging to control. Get your Huck on!

 

Q: The draft feels like its moving around in my Retro. What's wrong?

A: Draft instability in the Retro is indicative of insufficient downhaul tension. Increasing the downhaul tension will tighten and stabilize the leading edge of the sail, locking the draft in place and it also allows the head and upper leech to twist twist open, which keeps the center of effort low where its easy to control. For additional power ease the outhaul to increase the depth of the draft. For more info, see the Retro rigging guide and in particular, the downhaul settings instructions.

 

Q: How much should I tension the battens?

A: Keep the battens tightest in the bottom of the sail where the draft profile is deepest, and feather the batten tension back as you move up to each next batten. Additional shape can be forced into the sail with batten tension, so be careful not to over-tensioning the upper battens.

 

Q: How do I set up my adjustable outhaul system?

A: Detailed instructions for setup and use of the Sailworks Adjustable Outhaul System can be found here.